Kyrenia. A Journey North

If you’re fascinated by tales of knights and would like to find out more about Cyprus during the Middle Ages, I’d recommend taking a trip north to visit the town of Kyrenia.

For a long time, this part of the island was inaccessible to tourists from the southern part of Cyprus. Now that crossing the border is legal and poses no difficulties, you shouldn’t miss the chance to see some new and interesting places.

For those planning to travel to Kyrenia from Protaras and Ayia Napa, the journey will turn into a real adventure. But I can assure you, it’s well worth it. The nature and landscape of the northern part of the island are quite different from those in the south. When you cross the border, you find yourself in a completely different country.

And, as the route to Kyrenia passes through Nicosia, you’ll have the chance to see the world’s only divided capital.

Don’t forget to bring your passport, as well as some comfortable shoes: I speak from personal experience – wandering through the mountains in flip-flops isn’t exactly comfortable.

Nicosia – the divided capital

As you approach Nicosia, you can immediately see a mountain range rising in the distance, named after the destination of our journey: the town of Kyrenia.

On the southern slope of the range, facing the Greek part of the island, two flags are displayed: the Turkish flag and the flag of the unrecognised northern republic, both of which are illuminated in the evening. Even for those far removed from the issue of the island’s occupation, such a demonstrative gesture evokes only negative emotions.

Pentadaktylos – ‘the giant’s hand’

The Kyrenia mountain range stretches along the northern coast. Its main rock types are limestone and marble. The highest point of the range – Mount Kyparissovouno (Cypress Mountain) – rises 1,024 metres above sea level.

The eastern part of the range is wider, reaching 25–30 km, whilst the western part is considerably narrower – no more than 15 km. There, in the west, lies Mount Pentadaktylos, which is only 740 m high. Translated from Greek, Πενταδάκτυλος means ‘five fingers’.

According to folk legend, the giant Digenis was banished from Asia Minor and fled to Cyprus. Upon reaching the Kyrenia mountain range, he found he could not cross it, as the ridge was as soft as butter. So the giant grabbed hold of the mountain’s summit and, in a fit of rage, broke off a piece of it. This is how a mountain resembling a giant’s hand came to be in Cyprus.

Visiting Saint Hilarion

After crossing the border in the centre of Nicosia, we headed straight for the Kyrenia Mountains. There, at an altitude of 1,000 metres, stands St Hilarion’s Castle. After getting off the bus at the foot of the castle, we continued our tour on foot.

This remarkable structure is carved into the mountain. Originally a monastery, it was later used by the Byzantines as a defensive fortification to repel Arab raids.

During the Middle Ages (12th–15th centuries), at the behest of the ruling Lusignan dynasty, the castle was significantly fortified and given its second name, D’Amour.  It withstood a siege by the forces of Emperor Frederick II in 1232 and a siege by the Genoese in 1373.

Then, in the 15th century, the Venetians demolished a significant part of the castle in an effort to reduce the costs of maintaining it. All the castle’s rooms were divided into three sections. The first, lower section housed the stables and the guards’ barracks; the second contained the ballroom and the church; whilst the royal family and their entourage were accommodated in the third, upper section.

Not far from St Hilarion’s Castle lie the castles of Buffavento and Cantara. They also served as defensive structures, but are in a much poorer state of preservation. Being immersed in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages is mesmerising! However, it was time to move on, so we took our seats on the coach.

Bellapais Abbey

The next stop on our tour was a visit to Bellapais Abbey. It is situated in the village of the same name, a five-minute drive from Kyrenia. The abbey was once a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. Unfortunately, only the remains of its former splendour have survived to this day.

Monks of the Augustinian Order, who had arrived in Cyprus from Jerusalem, began construction of the abbey between 1198 and 1205. Construction was not completed until 1359, during the reign of King Hugh IV. Although the building is badly dilapidated, one can still sense a certain romance and mystery of the Middle Ages there.

Kyrenia

After driving just 5 km, we stopped not far from the main promenade of the town of Kyrenia, or Girne as the Turks call it.

Buildings taller than five storeys are prohibited in the town, which may be why it feels as though time has stood still here. Only the boats and motorboats moored at the harbour serve as a reminder of the 21st century.

Like other towns in Cyprus, Kyrenia has a rich history. In 1878, during the period of British rule, a motorway was built linking Nicosia to the northern coast. This gave a major boost to the town’s development, and active construction of schools, hotels and hospitals began. Following the events of 1974, Kyrenia’s development as an economic centre came to a halt. Today, it is the main resort town in the northern part of the island.

After visiting Kyrenia Castle, St George’s Church and the Shipwreck Museum, we had some free time to wander around the old town on our own, pick up a couple of souvenirs and enjoy a cup of Turkish coffee.

Having been to Kyrenia, you realise once again that the so-called northern part of the island is strikingly different from the south. You can physically sense that it is a completely different country, with different people and a different mindset. And it’s not just about religion, but also about lifestyle. It’s hard to imagine that this was once a single entity.

Tour price:

• adults €60;
• child €30.

To book a tour, you can fill in the online booking form, email us at: orShow email call us on: +357 25 310 692.