The best tavernas in sunny Cyprus

Anyone who has never been to a traditional Cypriot mountain taverna will never know what the island’s authentic cuisine is really like. Anyone who has not tasted village wine, Commandaria and Zivania cannot claim to be well versed in Cypriot wines. Many travellers, upon arriving on the island, will undoubtedly want to visit a tavern and enjoy a wonderful evening, savouring the authentic atmosphere and washing down a superb meal with excellent wine, served by hospitable hosts in a little earthenware jug.

But how can you avoid making a mistake and find a place that’s truly worth visiting when you don’t know the island? We’ll try to share our observations on the best tavernas in Cyprus, located in the mountains. By the way, in the mountain tavernas, we’d recommend ordering meat meze, which is more typical of these areas, whilst for fish meze, head to the coastal regions.

Apsiou Tavern

This traditional tavern is situated in the village of the same name, on the site of an old watermill. Next to it stands a church dating from the 16th century. So, when you visit the tavern, you’ll not only enjoy a delicious meal but also get a first-hand feel for the island’s cultural and historical heritage.

Even if there are four of you, it’s best to start by ordering two portions of meze, as you might simply find it too much to manage: dips and the freshest pita bread, a village salad and olives, luntsa and tsamareella (dry-cured goat’s meat), chiomeri and halloumi cheese… This is just the start of the meal – the cold starters.

Next come the hot starters – lukánika, aubergines with egg, and meatballs seasoned with the most delicate spices. And, of course, hot main courses await you – succulent pork and chicken kebabs, fragrant beef in red wine, the famous sheftalia and a wide variety of side dishes. The meal will conclude with lamb – a roast head or kleftiko. And the price of this feast will be around 15 euros per person! Remember that, traditionally, the minimum number of meze portions is two. For dessert, your hospitable host will offer you local sweets and seasonal fruit.

It’s best to check the tavern’s opening times in advance. For example, in winter it’s only open in the evenings on Fridays and Saturdays. But on these days, it’s best to book in advance, as there’s a huge influx of locals.

Linos and The Mill Taverns

Two more excellent tavernas await you in the village of Kakopetria. Rest assured, whichever one you choose, you won’t regret it!

The Mill Restaurant is situated in the hotel of the same name, ‘The Mill’. For lunch or dinner, choose a spot on the restaurant’s open-air veranda to enjoy the sound of the nearby stream and the view of the majestic mountains. Here you’ll be offered both traditional local appetisers and hot dishes, as well as excellent trout farmed in the mountains.

In the very heart of the village of Kakopetria lies Linos, a restaurant that is no less well-known and popular amongst the locals. Its menu is remarkably varied: snails and prawns in tomato sauce, aubergine caviar, ostrich meat, and spicy ‘pastourma’ sausages (cold and hot starters cost between 3 and 6 euros). But most connoisseurs come here for something else entirely – to sample one of the most popular dishes: trout (known as ‘pestrofa’ in Greek) served with a delicious garlic sauce (€16). This speciality of the house is sure to impress any foodie!

And, of course, the tavern offers a good selection of wines: house wine at €14 for a large carafe, and wines from local wineries – Vasilikon, Makkas and Aes Ambelis – priced between €15 and €18 a bottle.

The Kamares and Lofou tavernas

You’ll find these two tavernas in another Cypriot village – Lofou. The owner of the eponymous Lofou tavern is the charming Kostas Violaris, who, incidentally, occasionally reveals the secrets behind his amazing dishes whilst hosting television programmes.

Kostas, his wife Androulla and their four children put their heart and soul into running their small family business. In this traditional tavern, with its cosy open fire and antique furnishings, you can not only sample home-cooked dishes prepared with love, but also enjoy the enchanting sound of the bouzouki, which Kostas sometimes picks up to entertain his dear guests.

If you have time, the tavern’s hosts will teach you how to bake bread, cook traditional kleftiko and moussaka, fry halloumi cheese, and reveal other secrets of Cypriot cuisine!

You’ll find a visit to the Kamares tavern, situated in the lower part of the village of Lofou, just as enjoyable. Its owner and head chef, Xenios, is a true master at cooking lamb on a spit and preparing several other unique Cypriot dishes that can only be savoured by visiting the village.

The cost of a meat meze in Cyprus’s mountain tavernas ranges from 12 to 16 euros per person. A carafe of house wine costs around 14 euros. So, a hearty lunch in a mountain taverna will set you back around 40–45 euros.

Of course, the list of the best tavernas in Cyprus isn’t limited to those mentioned. You can find wonderful establishments in any of the villages: Agros, Trimiklini, Platres, Pera Pedi and in many other hidden corners of Cyprus. However, if you’re staying in Limassol and don’t plan on going on long trips, there are a few places that the locals recommend. These include the tavern and small restaurants in the village of Armenochori and the Forsos tavern (near the Mutayaka area), all of which are situated about 5 km from the tourist area.

Of course, you can sample meze at any of the tavernas in the tourist area – it’s also served in hotel restaurants – but, believe us, you’ll only get a true taste of village life by venturing into the mountains. We’re sure this trip will leave you with lots of happy memories and culinary delights!