Sumosan serves Japanese-inspired dishes at renovated Landmark Nicosia

Nicosia, Cyprus. Sumosan, inside the newly renovated Landmark Nicosia hotel, hosted an invited dinner for dozens of journalists, influencers, food writers and other media guests. The reviewer attended without a dining companion and did not have to make a reservation or anticipate a bill.

Setting

The restaurant combines earthy tones, natural materials and carefully placed lighting. The reviewer found the décor visually detailed without becoming excessive and noted that the chairs remained comfortable throughout the lengthy dinner.

Opening dishes

The meal began with boiled edamame beans, which the reviewer described as mild, subtly sweet and well salted. A baby leaf salad with French beans and roasted pine nuts followed; its sesame dressing gave the dish a warm, nutty flavour.

Tuna sashimi taquitos came with spicy mayo, chives, jalapeno and kizami wasabi. The reviewer found the tuna tender and said the stronger ingredients did not overwhelm it.

Beef and yellowtail

Seared Wagyu beef tataki was served in thin, marbled slices, briefly cooked on the outside and rare within. The reviewer praised its rich, buttery flavour and the restrained preparation.

The yellowtail tiradito, served with truffle yuzu vinaigrette and black truffle shavings, was less successful: the reviewer found that the truffle overwhelmed both the fish and the vinaigrette.

The final dish was bone marrow beef tartare made with beef tenderloin, umeboshi—Japanese pickled ume fruit—and sesame oil. Served along a split marrow bone, it had an unusual presentation that took some getting used to, but the reviewer praised its taste.